Walk guide
Whalley Abbey
A short walk from Whalley station, past the viaduct and the gatehouse, to the abbey on the edge of the River Calder. I spent about two hours walking around the abbey, then went back.
Follow the walk
The walk at a glance
In progress, video coming soon
This guide is based on my first visit only. The video is not edited yet because I need more footage, so there is no video or route map yet.
Read my diary entryWhalley Station
Getting there
From the Blackburn to Clitheroe platform, go down the ramp, cross the road and walk along the same side as the viaduct.
History
The line closed to passengers in 1962 but stayed open for freight, mostly cement trains from Clitheroe. In the 1980s the Settle to Carlisle line was saved and Ribblehead viaduct was repaired, which inspired locals to form a group called Ribble Valley Rail. They campaigned for passenger trains to return. In 1994, after 32 years, they did. The volunteers still look after the stations today.
Whalley Viaduct
Getting there
Walking beside the viaduct brings you to a crossroads close to the River Calder. Straight on is the river crossing. To go to the abbey, turn left under the viaduct.
History
Built between 1846 and 1850. It has 48 arches and is still the longest railway viaduct in Lancashire. It took over seven million bricks, all made in Whalley, and cost 40,000 pounds. The arches were built over wooden frames. On 6 October 1849, arches twelve and thirteen collapsed. Heavy rain was blamed, as the mortar had not set. Three men died: Thomas Keefe, Johnny Forsythe and Charles Harrison. The arches were rebuilt, and the engineer, Terence Woulfe Flanagan, added Gothic decoration by the abbey so the viaduct would blend in with the ruins.
The Gatehouse (north-west gateway)
Getting there
Under the viaduct, the first piece of the abbey you come across is the Whalley Gatehouse.
History
This is the first piece of the abbey you meet. It is the oldest standing part of the abbey, begun around 1320 and finished by 1350. It is Grade I listed and now in the care of English Heritage. It stands outside the present abbey grounds and spans a narrow lane called The Sands, which was once the main road north up the Ribble valley. It was also where alms were given and food and drink handed out to the poor. The first floor was probably a chapel. Two gatehouses survive at the abbey. This is the early one. The other, the north-east gatehouse, dates from the late 15th century.
The Church and the Stone Buildings
Getting there
Coming out the other side of the gatehouse, you pass stone buildings, including two church buildings which are both worth a visit.
History
The church of St Mary and All Saints is one of the oldest in Lancashire. A church probably stood here in Saxon times, and the churchyard has three Anglo-Saxon crosses from the 9th to 11th centuries. The Domesday Book of 1086 records a church of St Mary here. The current building dates mainly from the 13th century, with the tower added in the late 15th century. Inside, the choir stalls were carved around 1430 and came from the abbey church. The name of the craftsman, a Mr Eatough, has survived, which is rare for medieval work. Some of the abbey's misericords went elsewhere: eight to Blackburn and two to Cliviger. The abbey's stone was quarried nearby at Read and Simonstone. When the abbey ended, stone was carted off to build houses in the village. I believe many of the old stone buildings along this street were built from it. That is my own observation, not a confirmed fact.
Whalley Abbey
Getting there
At the end of the street, turn right into Whalley Abbey.
History
The monks came here around 730 years ago from Stanlaw Abbey on the Mersey, because that site kept flooding. The land belonged to the de Lacy family, who also owned Clitheroe Castle. Henry de Lacy laid the first stone in 1296 and building took nearly 150 years. The abbey church was finished around 1380, and the infirmary, abbot's lodging and cloister by the 1440s. The layout is unusual for a Cistercian abbey. The church was aligned north-north-west to south-south-east instead of east to west, to make the best use of the water supply. The north-east gatehouse, built in 1480, is the main entrance today. It still collects tolls from visitors. The last abbot was John Paslew. The Pilgrimage of Grace against Henry VIII had just failed and Paslew refused to swear the king's oath of allegiance. He was executed in March 1537. Some say at Lancaster, others say on a hill by the river in sight of the abbey. After that the abbey was finished. Henry VIII took the land and stone was carted off to build houses in the village. It became a private house, and in 1923 the Church of England bought it back. Today it is a retreat centre and the ruins are open to everyone. Bits of this abbey are all around Whalley.
The episode
Video coming soon.
The route
Follow the animated map to see exactly where I went.
Route map coming soon.
Photos
Practical notes
What I learned on the day, so you can repeat the walk without surprises.
Parking
I went by train, so I did not park.
Refreshments
I ate in the Abbey Cafe, which was fantastic.
Tricky crossings
Nothing tricky.
Good to know
Give yourself plenty of time. It is quicker to drive there, because the trains through Blackburn are few and far between.