Alsace and Turkheim

Plaque at Turckheim

Today was uneventful, I spent most of it thinking about Sophie. I coasted along the Eurovelo 5 wine route, it was fairly flat and I only had a bit of a problem when I selected the wrong gear. I must remember that twisting the handlebar grip away from me selects a higher gear and twisting it towards me is a lower gear, I kept twisting it the wrong way and losing momentum going uphill, so I had to get off and push but apart from that only lunch was weird.

My chain had just come off at a junction and I was covered in oil and a bit grumpy. So I stopped to clean up and grab a coffee or lunch. I passed a sign for a tea house, so I did a U-turn and parked my bike and went in, it was a lovely wooden cafe set back a little from the main road. I was greeted with a “Bonjour” by a big women in a piny. I asked for the set menu, not even knowing what it was or how much, she said Oui, I gestured that I would eat at the tables outside the front as my bike was there, she pointed out that I could take my bike around the back into the garden area where everyone else was eating. So I moved my bike around to the garden, sat down, wrote two postcards and watched people who arrived after me get served and enjoy their meal, I had obviously been forgotten. As the place was very busy I got up and left and an hour and a half later heated a tin of cannelloni and ate it at a very nice picnic site, so some money saved. I cycled on the Eurovelo 5 until I came across a camping sign, I followed it to a wonderful medieval campsite called Camping La Medieval in Turckheim. I also think this is my 1000km mark but will have to check on my tablet.


I booked a pitch with electricity as all my devices were flat and standing in a shower block doesn’t work. Although I had to pay for a full pitch as the tent area has no electricity but still cheaper than a hotel at 18.05 Euros. I used the washing machine but the drier didn’t work so I put up a make shift washing line between a tree and the hedge next to my tent but after I had hung my clothes on it the hedge decided to let go of the line and my washing ended up on the floor, so I tied one end to my bike, the washing was low to the ground but it stayed up. I heated some rice for my tea and had a blackcurrant lemsip, not because I have a cold I just wanted something other than coffee. I’m a bit concerned about the budget, Europe is proving to be very expensive. I will have to look at options as I’ve not got to Asia yet and the money is going fast. I might have to look at more wild camping, I just have to be more organised plus need to cook for myself or buy meals ready to eat. I had a surprisingly comfy nights sleep even though I wasn’t on a level surface as I had to set the tent up close to the electric hook up as the lead I was given wasn’t very long, I woke up a little cold but after a hot shower felt great.


The sun is shining and I’m at a cafe having a 1000 km breakfast and people watching, cafe Richard opposite house number 43 in Turckheim a tobacconist that serves coffee and omelettes. A woman who wouldn’t look out-of-place in a planet of the apes film is smoking in her white Nissan opposite me, it’s a narrow cobbled street with a medieval look, there’s bunting along the street, either for the tourists or a fete. Walkers, cyclists and tourists pass me as I drink my coffee and write my journal. Two policeman walk down street chatting and greeting locals, two young guy’s stop for coffee and a cigarette on the table next to me, my omelette arrives, thin tasty cheese, onion with mushrooms.


The roof of the house opposite is crooked but looks new so perhaps it’s how roofs are around here. I’m relaxed today, in no rush, all my devices are charged, the sun is out and there’s a good atmosphere here opposite No:43. I walked to the fountain at the end of the street to post my cards, as instructed by the waitress in the tobacconists. I then set off for my days cycling, it was to be slow and steady following the wine route.